Located on the Atlantic coast an hour north of Casablanca, Rabat is swept with ocean breezes, giving it a temperate climate. King Mohamed VI’s primary residence is here, and as a result the city is tranquil, clean and calm. Fringed with beaches, its streets lined with orange trees, Rabat offers an intriguing blend of ancient and modern.
Arriving in Rabat
Rabat has a small international airport. However, most visitors find cheaper flights arriving in Casablanca or Marrakesh, and come to Rabat by train. Morocco’s train system is modern and comfortable overall, although it is worth paying a little extra for first class. It is not necessary to book tickets ahead of time, but schedules can be checked online. Rabat has two stations: Agdal and Centre Ville. Centre Ville is closer to most hotels, as well as to the riads in the medina, or ancient city.
Rabat’s “petit taxis” are blue and only carry 3 passengers at a time, no matter the age or size of the passengers. They have a meter so prices are clearly marked; if the meter is not working, take a different taxi. If a taxi driver has to open his trunk for extra luggage, he will want to negotiate a tip. 10-15 Moroccan dirhams should be ample, although the driver will probably start higher.
Visiting Rabat – Bab Zaer, the Chellah, the Medina, and the Kasbah of the Oudayas
Below is a small sampling of all this city has to offer.
The enormous gateway Bab Zaer boasts 2.5 metre thick walls and frequent minor traffic jams. It is one of the city’s small delights to glimpse modern cars and buses traversing this ancient portal, built in the 12th century by the Almohads and restored in the 18th century.
Directly opposite the Bab Zaer is the Chellah. The site was originally a Roman colony situated on a hill with a commanding view of the valley and river below. In the mid-14th century, it was enclosed by an imposing wall and gate, and a small village rose next to the Roman ruins, which was subsequently destroyed in an earthquake.
Now, visitors to the site can enjoy wandering through roofless rooms filled with arches, stepping on ancient paving stones, and exploring a ruined mosque. The Chellah is filled with greenery and wild flowers. There is a garden where Moroccan families picnic, and an eel-infested pool whose waters are rumoured to cure infertility (it certainly seems to be working for the many cats that can be glimpsed in the garden). Storks are abundant, and in the spring time the swifts and swallows can be seen darting through the ruins and soaring above the valley.
Rabat’s medina can be a much more pleasant experience for travelers from the West than some of the bigger, more touristy medinas in Fes or Marrakesh. Enter just across from the Oudayas, and plunge into an eastern world ; tiny warren-like shops full of lanterns to delight an Aladdin’s heart, stacks of pottery, intricate designs stamped on metals or coloured leathers. The medina is compact and doesn’t require a guide, making it an ideal place to pass an enjoyable afternoon. Visitors can enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice, made in front of them, or piping hot beignets, tiny and sweet, served in a large paper cone for only 2 dirhams (about 25 cents USD).
Located where the Bou Regreg River meets the Atlantic Ocean, the Oudayas have been at various times a site occupied by the Oudaya tribe, a pirate fort, and a small village complete with castle (Kasbah) and mosque. Now its tiny twisting alleyways are all painted blue and white, and it boasts several art galleries, two museums, and an Andalusian garden, peaceful and colourful. Just beyond the garden is the entrance to the well-known Café Maure, where guests can enjoy traditional mint tea and plates of sweet almond-filled pastries while taking in a view of the mouth of the river and across to Rabat’s sister city, Salé. The stairs leading to the entrance of the Udayas are filled with men eager to be hired as guides and women trying to gain permission to swirl a henna pattern onto fingers and wrists.
Upon leaving the Oudayas, visitors can either cross the street to the medina, or continue along the river bank to enjoy a plethora of dining options—including the best ice-cream in Rabat at either Venezia Ice or BlueBerry.
Shopping in Rabat
Whether one is hoping to bring home traditional handicraft or a modern brand-name handbag, Rabat has much to offer. Agdal’s streets are lined with fashionable boutiques and cafes where one can while away an afternoon enjoying an espresso and watching the variety of people strolling the streets. A woman in a traditional scarf and djellaba will stroll arm in arm with a friend in a mini skirt and high heels.
Mega Mall not only offers brand-name shopping but also such diversions as bowling and ice-skating.
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